Telavi
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Tips
6 places on the map
Top 10
- 1
Fortress-palace of King Erekle II with a history museum and art gallery.
- Must know: Closed Mondays
2 tips
- Allow an hour inside
- See the royal palace rooms
📷 Photos
- 2
Hilltop park with sweeping views over the Alazani Valley to the Caucasus.
- Tip: Go early
2 tips
- Cafe terrace at the edge
- Free and open all day
📷 Photos
- 3
Enormous plane tree said to be about 900 years old.
3 tips
- Free, short walk from the centre
- Trunk is about 12 m around
- Shady spot on hot days
📷 Photos
- 4
Equestrian statue of King Erekle II in front of the fortress walls.
3 tips
- Free to see any time
- Good meeting point
- Nice photo with the walls
📷 Photos
- 5
Chavchavadze family estate with a house museum, English garden and winery.
3 tips
- Do a wine tasting in the cellars
- Garden alone is cheaper
- About 15 minutes by taxi
📷 Photos
- 6
Tall 11th-century cathedral with monastery wine cellars amid vineyards.
- Must know: Dress code
2 tips
- Monks make wine, try it in the shop
- About 20 km from Telavi
📷 Photos
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Before you go: Telavi tips
Transportation
- Catch a marshrutka: Minibuses to Telavi leave Tbilisi from Ortachala bus station; the route over the Gombori Pass is shorter but twisty, so sit up front if prone to carsickness.
- Hire a driver for the valley: Wineries, Alaverdi and Gremi are spread across the Alazani Valley, so a day with a local driver is the easiest way to link them.
- Agree taxi fares first: Local taxis in Telavi rarely use meters; settle the price before you get in, ideally with your guesthouse host's help.
Security
- Pace yourself at a supra: Georgian feasts mean endless toasts of wine and chacha; it is fine to sip rather than drain your glass every time.
- Mind the roads: Driving in Kakheti can be fast and aggressive, with cows on the road; avoid night drives on mountain passes if you can.
- Ignore the street dogs: Telavi has many stray dogs, mostly tagged and calm; do not feed or approach packs, especially near markets.
Saving
- Stay in a family guesthouse: Telavi guesthouses often include homemade breakfast and house wine, and hosts can arrange cheap tastings.
- Shop at the bazaar: The Telavi market sells churchkhela, cheese, fruit and shoti bread fresh from the tone oven for far less than restaurants.
- Buy wine from family cellars: Small marani cellars sell qvevri wine by the bottle or jug at much better prices than branded shops.
Weather/Clothing
- Pack light for summer: July and August are hot in the Alazani Valley; bring breathable clothes, a hat and sunscreen for vineyard visits.
- Bring layers for autumn: The Rtveli grape harvest in September and October has warm days and cool evenings, so pack a sweater.
- Expect cold winters: Winters are chilly with snow in the Caucasus foothills and on the Gombori Pass; bring a warm coat and boots.
Cultural
- Cover up at monasteries: At Alaverdi, Ikalto and Shuamta, women should cover their heads and wear skirts, and men should avoid shorts.
- Follow the tamada: At a supra the toastmaster leads the toasts; wait for your turn and do not drink before a toast is made.
- Taste qvevri wine: Kakheti is the home of wine made in buried clay qvevri jars; try amber Rkatsiteli and red Saperavi at local cellars.
Local Hacks
- See the giant plane tree: The huge old chinari tree near the town centre is a local landmark and a shady stop before Batonis Tsikhe.
- Visit Tsinandali: The Chavchavadze estate nearby has gardens, a museum and wine cellars, an elegant half-day trip from Telavi.
- Time your trip for Rtveli: During the autumn harvest many families welcome visitors to help pick and press grapes, a memorable experience.
1-day itineraries in Telavi
Only have a day? Each one keeps you in one area, from morning to late afternoon, with lunch nearby.